15.08.2004

Beach bums

Posted by danielle

After two months of backpacking around SE Asia, we really have earnt our "holiday within a holiday". After all, we really do need a vacation from all of this backpacking! We're now on Koh Pha Ngan, one of the south-eastern islands of Thailand and are naturally indulging in the island lifestyle.

Haad Rin...

The first week was spent on on Haad Rin - the party beach of the island. Our bungalow sat on the headland overlooking 'sunrise' beach. When it was time for sunset - well you just walk over to sunset beach to... catch a sun set. Days were spent soaking up the rays on the beach and the evenings in beach bars, or jungle raves...

Picture this. You jump in a sawngthaw (taxi) with a truck full of backpackers and drive for 30 mins in search of the half moon party. After the bumpy journey, your driver drops you in the middle of the jungle and instructs you to walk towards the deep sounds of jungle music pulsing from beneath the trees. Under a truly magical canopy of palm trees, you walk into the heart of the jungle rave. Below the starry night sky, black light is ever present illuminating everything in sight. Sculptures seem to hang in orbit between the palms making for a cosmic backdop - both natural & synthetic.

Scattered throughout the jungle, overlooking the dancefloor, are the chill-out areas. Grass mats with tables and candles act as a soothing reprise from the go-go-dancers on the dance floor. The dancing continues from under a starry sky through to the brilliant blue of the morning.

Bottle Beach...

We've now removed ourselves from the craziness of Haad Rin, and escaped to a more remote and tranquil beach - Bottle beach - where the only means of access is by long tail boat, and electricity is yet to be introduced (although there is a generator for a few hours each evening).

The name of our guest house says it all - "Smile's bungalows" - always full with a flow of backpackers and a definite beach community feel. Oooh, ah, sigh. The bungalows are hidden amongst a rainforest of palms and other lush tropical flora, with views to the white sands & turquoise waters. We're devouring books by the day and developing an ever browning tropical tan.

In light of the Olympic spirit, we've taken to competing in as many sports as possible. Our favourite would have to be the demanding leisure sport of bat n' ball on the shore. Another favourite is beach volleyball (right out the front of our bungalows) where every pommy seems to believe that a) it is a spin-off from soccer and b) that a scrum is always necessary. Have to say though, that my greatest contribution to the Olympics would have to be the skill of 'visualisation' on the beach lilo.

Each evening the cushioned chill-out area/restaurant/bar is filled with the chatter of backpackers & the tunes of Bob, Jack or Ben. I've just purchased another fire stick, so am spending the nights training for this newly introduced Olympic sport. All us pyromaniacs come out from the dark to spin fire and give some light to our little beach.