08.11.2004

Holy dip

Just when we thought we’d reached the true traveler Nirvana – becoming one with our personal filth and dirtiness so our surroundings don’t seem as filthy - our boundaries were challenged once again. Bring on Varanasi...

Our train rolled into Varanasi as morning dawned over the holy city. Woken by the hordes of passengers & pilgrims praying at the mere sight of the Ganges River – “Guess this is Varanasi” - we agreed. Varanasi, the city of Shiva, is one of the holiest places in India. Hindu pilgrims come to bathe in the waters of the Ganges, a ritual that washes away all sins. It is said that the Ganges provides millions of Indians with an important link to their spirituality.

As we stroll past the Ghats along the river, we can only try to imagine why Hindus flock to the holy waters to take a dip. The Ganges may very well wash away the sins of the 60,000 daily visitors, but with the possibility of acquiring a third ear during their holy wash. Also taking a dip are 30 sewers lining the riverbed. The water is severely septic, leaving us travelers slightly...er...skeptic.

The atmosphere is definitely unique. One might say it's similar to a summer bathing pavilion. Travellers may prefer a far-fetched euphemism. A colourful, lively experience none the less. Near-naked men taking a dip or absorbing the busy surrounds. All seem to be dressed in bright orange and red wraps, long beards and faces marked Hindu with white or red powder. Some touts insist on neck & shoulder massages. Or a haircut. Or fortune telling hand-jobs. Or on beaded jewelry accessories. Or insisting on purchasing a log of wood.

Why? To cremate one of the hundreds of bodies, daily. We were guided to a watch-tower to observe the abundance of ‘fires’ burning below. What seemed to be a log being rolled over on first glance, revealed to be a spinal chord. The buildings, surrounding the fires, are designated for the dying. To the left, smallpox casualties, and to the right, lepers. Cornered - we were - in a scam of purchasing a log. “For Karma” says the tout. “Weird” says we.

The stench of burning corpses, though, was unrecognisable over the overwhelming stench of sewerage. Over the last six months, our noses had become accustomed to the wretched smells that surround us at any given time. But the stench from the Ganges has certainly, in marketing terms, acquired its true point of differentiation.

With all of its sewerage stenches though, Varanasi is full of life. Spirituality. Colour. Interesting characters. And picturesque ancient architecture, lining the river. It is a bustling, aggressive city, but has it’s own special charm.