09.11.2004
Varanasi
Posted by danielle
Varanasi has a certain radiance which grows on you (following from ‘holy dip’). Once you get past the stench and dirtiness, you start to appreciate its spiritual qualities, drawing millions of pilgrims to the city each year.
Every city has it’s own unique alarm clock inherent to that particular region. In the city, it’s the beeping of bustling horns. In the country, it is the rooster’s cry. On the coast, it’s the crashing of waves against the shore. And in Varanasi, it’s the pitter-patter of footsteps leading down to the Ganges River, followed by the bellowing of washing bags beating down the banks. “A dream?” you ask yourself, noticing that the stars are still twinkling in the night sky.
No, just dedicated washers intent on securing prime position along the river. Oh... and because sunrise and sunset are considered extremely holy times along the Ganges.
Slap
Float
Slap
Squeeeeeeze
Wring
Toss
Lay
…is the procedure for washing. Suites, Sheets, Shirts and Saris (and 10m long at that) are laid out to dry along the banks. Come 10am, the bellowing bundles have been attended to - that is washed in the highly polluted, septic holy waters – and the 7km stretch along the river is a brilliant rainbow of fabrics. Bring on the red…er…purple carpet!
At dusk, the city comes alive with a celebration of life and light. The atmosphere is a magical offering for all the senses: A warm glow of fairy lights around the Ghat. Floating candles twinkle as they make their way down the river.
Incense slowly burning to disguise the stench. And a drum, flute, lyrical and candle performance assuming the attention of the crowd. An India guy sitting next to us proudly informs us this celebration “takes place every night... in fact, even 365 nights a year!” I can see why he is so proud of such a nightly celebration.
