03.12.2004

McLeod Ganj

Posted by danielle

After spending three weeks in this gorgeous little mountain town, we can just about call Mcleod Ganj our home away from well, no home. Set in the foothills of the snow capped Dhauladhar mountain range, it is home to the Tibetan government and people in exile, including the Dalai Lama.

The majority of locals are Tibetan, dressed in their traditional clothes and warm smiles. The little streets are lined with boutique shops selling everything from homemade crafts, knitted winter woolies and books on Tibetan history, Buddhism and self-healing. Jewelry shops are in abundance and ‘Chants of Tibet’ float throughout the streets, leaving a peaceful ambience in the air.

Tibetan cultural expression is ever present. 'Free Tibet' clothing, accessories and music is sold everywhere and, if you’re longing for western creature comforts, there are a nightly screenings of Tibetan history and culture on wide screen TV's. Everyone lounging on cushions and couches absorbing the cultural history - a well spent 30 rupees! The fortunate travelers also experience performances at the Tibetan School of Performing arts - an event which is supposed to be an inspiring experience.

‘Free Tibet’ paintings are seen all around the region - on restaurant walls, garage doors, tin roofs, and engraved/painted on rocks all the way up to Moon Peak. For the duration of our stay, there have been daily peaceful protests in an attempt to raise awareness and signatures for a petition to free Tenzin Delek, a political prisoner captured in Tibet and sentenced to death. The following is a passage out of the newsletter distributed throughout MG, and will give you some insight into the treatment of Tibetans by the Chinese:

Tulku Tenzin is a highly respected reincarnate lama recognized by His Holiness the Dalai Lama. Tulku Tenzin Delek, after six long years of religious education in India, returned to Tibet to dedicate himself to the sacred task of serving the poor local Tibetans, who have no access to education and medical facilities. Tulku Tenzin Delek, apart from spearheading major anti-deforestation drives and environmental conservation programs built and financed several monasteries, schools, old-age homes, a Tibetan medical school and a clinic for the local villagers. In his teachings, Tulku Tenzin Delek advocated the need to follow the teachings of the Dalai Lama and to practice love, non-violence and brotherhood. The rising popularity of the Tulku through these philanthropic activities brought him under the direct scrutiny of the Chinese officials. Local Chinese authorities twice attempted to detain Tulku Tenzin Delek on a number of trumped up charges, including ‘endangering state security’ and ‘illegal construction of monasteries and schools’.

One eye-opening experience was meeting Ven. Bagdro, a Buddhist monk who suffered as a political prisoner under Chinese rule. We met Bagdro one morning while we were having breakfast. He was gaining signatures (400 000 to be exact) to enable the Dalai Lama to speak at the UN assembly about human rights. He told us that he was once a political prisoner for three years, and suffered the unimaginable for a crime he did not commit. Curious about his story and suffering we bought his book, “A Hell on Earth”, which detailed his innocent story. After Bagdro was arrested, at age 20, he served a three-year sentence in Chinese prisons where he suffered extreme torture for the duration of his time. Instruments of torture included sophisticated electric prods which were used all over the body, handcuffs, shackles, leather belts, iron rods and guns. These methods of torture are still used on prisoners today.

Around McLeod Ganj, support from the international community is apparent - there is a large community of young foreigners teaching English. I was told that hundreds of Tibetans escape Tibet in order to learn English, so to inform the international community of life under Chinese rule. Many parents send their kids to India, not knowing if they will ever see them again, in order to keep up their culture in Tibetan schools and offer them a better life in India. If anyone is looking to do some volunteer work abroad, I’d highly recommend teaching English in McLeod Ganj based on reports from other travellers, but best bring your winter woolies, it gets freeeeezing in winter!

If you're wanting to inject a little spiritually into your weary traveling soul, there is every kind of spiritual course/treatment on offer. From Reki, to Zen, Tibetan astrology, Tibetan massage, palm readings, yoga, meditation, natural medicine, cooking classes… the list goes on. There are colourful posters lining the streets advertising the array of courses - so getting bored is not an option in this town! The only problem I seemed to encounter was trying to arrange the course timetables, so nothing was missed out. Ah, the stresses of my life these days!

The most impactful course was the Vipassana meditation retreat. Ten days without any form of communication, verbal or non-verbal, while focusing inward the whole time. A skill which would appear so simple, yet proved to be such a challenge. Without a get-to-know-you session before the course, we all resorted to guessing each other's personalities and nationalities from a few sneaky glances. When the silence was broken on day 10, all personalities and nationalities were revealed - many of which were far from original guesstimates. Since the meditators ‘got out’, we’ve spent practically every evening together. From bonfires in the woods, to backpacker style dinner parties, morning/night meditation sittings, cooking classes, cheap eats or chai on the street. A journey across town is lengthened five-fold - you're bound to bump into a handful of meditators. 'There's the Vipassana crew again', the cows murmur. It's great, I feel like I’m back at uni again!

We really are a true melting pot of cultures. Directing the nightly dinner preparations, is Sergio, the flamboyant Spanish chef. Meanwhile, the American girl is preparing the eggplant, the Aussies are chopping carrots and the Canadian entertains us with crazy stories of her travels (the one who reached true liberation during the retreat when she shaved all her hair off!). Adding a pinch of Celtic flavour to the preparations, the Irish girl teaches us how to really dance, and the Lithuanian displays her outstanding multitasking abilities by making chocolate-coconut balls and Irish dancing simultaneously. The Swiss warms himself by the fire, while the French, Dutch and Israeli are battling off the chill through constant chatter. A real melting pot of cultures all brought together through the love of travel and adventure.

Two more months of the like, then off to London for another melting pot of cultures. Life really is beautiful!