04.12.2004
Popcorn and Machismo
Posted by justin
It's almost worth coming to India just to see this. A thirty minute auto-rickshaw ride out of Amritsar is the border town of Atari. Glimpses of Pakistan can be seen between the rolls of barbed wire, triple-reinforced bunkers, and platoons of troops that hang off the desolation of no-man's land.
As we've seen around many borders, the tired dusty pot-holed road suddenly transforms into a Proud, Respectable, Four-Lane National Highway. The usual asphalt posturing, but this time with a difference. At its' very end, past the popcorn vendors and acres of parked cars, tour buses, and auto-rickshaws rises...stadium seating. Though with the hundreds of Indians who come to see the theatrics of the border closing ceremony each evening it might do for India to build a few more stands.
The same could be said for Pakistan. As we jostled for position among Indians keen to capture the imminent machismo madness it was clear the distant stadium was also way past full capacity. Both crowds passed the time warming vocal chords in readiness of a display of national pride. Military police were fully engaged in crowd control as we all waited.
Finally the numerous rock-concert-sized speakers spat static as a microphone was switched on. The crowd switched on too, and roared as the border control guards marched out in their peacock finery to demonstrate who had the hardest, highest steps. The LOUD speakers carried a booming phrase, repeated by the crowd:
HINDUSTAN
Hindustan!
HINDUSTAN
Hindustan!
HINDUSTAN
Hindustan!
After five minutes of choreographed aggression there was a brief handshake between the opposing commanders at the border just before an about-step and the lowering of the national flags. Slowly. Very slowly. It would be devastating if one was lower than the other. Finally the flags were detatched, folded, and ceremoniously carried back.
The naked aggression on display was exciting, infectious and revolting. It was almost on par with a Chelsea v Arsenal game I saw a few years back. Almost.
And Chelsea v Arsenal were at it again yesterday here in London. Safely watched in the warm and well lubricated local public house.
Interestingly, a 2-2 draw, after a sneaky free kick by Arsenal almost created the kind of mayhem that an Indian/Pakistan border conflict has in the past!
Posted by: on December 13, 2004 07:27 PMGood to see it didn't distract you from your daily diet of a square apple ;-)
Though news from India seems to be the relationship with Pakistan is really starting to thaw : new bus route from Srinigar in Kashmir (northern India) through to Pakistan is good news for travellers.
Kashmir is one place we never got to visit due to weather (now at around -15 degrees!) but one place I'll definitely be visiting on one of the many future trips to India.
Posted by: on December 13, 2004 11:41 PMAunty screened the episode of "Himalaya with Michael Palin" that featured the bordercrossing just mentioned, and the golden temple of Amritsar... and Kashmir. I can't imagine the sights you're seeing, but apparently i can buy the DVD.
Posted by: on December 14, 2004 09:49 AMAh, better to put the $30 towards that travel fund!
Posted by: on December 14, 2004 01:20 PM